Yosemite Valley

This was our second night in the heart of bear country. At every turn you’re reminded that it’s an offense to leave any food or “scented items” in a container that’s not properly bear-proof. Apparently they rip open car doors and RVs like wet paper bags to get to food. All the bins (or should I say trash receptacles) are bear-proof too, with a special latch that requires some dexterity and opposable thumbs to operate; and yes, it confused me a couple of times.

Unfortunately we didn’t see any real bears, even though there was apparently “activity” in some of the campsites we were at. In case you’re wondering, in the event of a bear encounter you should make lots of noise, banging together pots and pans, make yourself look larger, and throw sticks and (small) rocks. Sounds like good advice for life in general.

Yosemite valley has a bit more of a developed feel than Tuolomne. Even though the campsites themselves have no power or water, there is a shop, a taqueria, a pizzeria and a pool at the oddly named “Curry Village” centre. Many of the trails are at least partly paved, which is actually a good thing when hiking with a 3yo. Some of the people I talked to had been coming for more than 10 years, the process of getting the sites as soon as they become available being a part of the ritual. I’m not really surprised; they go for the spots down by the Merced river where there’s sandy shores and it’s calm enough to swim or raft. A pretty good spot for a holiday in anyone’s book.

We hiked one of the easiest trails to Vernal Falls. It’s mostly paved, but even so we passed some struggling Americans. By the time we got to the falls proper we were struggling too. Mostly because of having to carry Jasmine up steep, wet steps hewn from the rock itself. We decided not to go up the (steeper, wetter) steps to the top of the falls. As Jen said “maybe next time we’re in Yosemite”.

Edited: August 3rd, 2010

Idyllic Tuolomne

Tuolomne Meadows campsite and the surrounding area is gorgeous. Absolutely beautiful. It’s so full of idyllic countryside cliches that it’s almost unreal.

We went for a walk down the river itself, across a grassy meadow, over the large flat rocks where the clear, cold water flowed and on through the dappled shade. We stopped to have a paddle where the river was shallow, and sat on a grassy bank eating cookies when Jen spotted a dear just across the river having a snack itself. We watched it for ages, the girls asking questions and watching as it nibbled away at the grass then eventually turned and went back into the forest. It was a really magical moment.

The next day, before heading into Yosemite valley for our second bonus camping day, we went for a walk to Dog Lake, a couple mile hike that we thought the girls could manage. On the way we came across more stunning forest scenes and although the lake itself wasn’t anything special there were loads of dragonflys to watch (and no mosquitoes!)

On to Yosemite Valley…

Edited: August 3rd, 2010

Treacherous Tioga Pass to Tuolomne

It was a fairly short trip from Mammoth to Yosemite. Unfortunately it involved going via Tioga Pass, a road that snakes up and around the mountains and into Yosemite. You know a road’s gonna be dodgy when it’s shut for more than half the year.

Jen had a great time looking out the window, admiring the view as I tried desperately to keep my eyes on the road to avoid getting vertigo. Driving something that’s wider than a bus down a road with corners so steep you’re supposed to take them in a *normal* car at 15mph is not fun.


We stopped near the top at a lake we came across unexpectedly. Jen took some pictures while I waited for the shaking to stop.

As we went on into Yosemite national park proper, the scenery became prettier and prettier; no longer fairly barren mountain-side terrain, there was suddenly greenery, pine trees, meadows and babbling streams. It was really stunning.

Our reverie was broken when we got to our camping destination, Tuolomne Meadows (I’m still not sure how to pronounce it), and spotted the dreaded FULL sign. Jen decided to try her luck and went into the park rangers office. Several long minutes later she emerged with a massive smile and an incredible prime camping site for not one, but two nights. I may never know what she did in that office, but I will be forever grateful.

Edited: August 3rd, 2010